2020 Challenge of the Year

 

The Challenge

In September of 2020, I was approached by a customer to grow a nice, lush green lawn for his daughter's wedding. Normally, this would be a challenge in itself taking a year or two. What took this challenge over the top was that I had 4 weeks to do it. CHALLENGE ACCEPTED!

How We Approached the Challenge

Normally, I would start a project like this by treating the soil, ridding the area of weeds, then renewing the turf with seeding and a variety of ways to break up the soil. I regret not having any before pictures, but, rest assured, it was the worst of the worst. A hard pan drainfield composed of clay and silt. This area not only lacked a single blade of grass, it was peppered with all types of weeds. What did I get myself into?

Execution of the Task at Hand

We started by applying the maximum rate of lime. (soil ph was about 5.7) We then put down a liberal amount of organic, bio solid starter fertilizer. I did this first so the machines would grind it into the ground. We then powerseeded the entire area with a Billygoat Slit Seeder in two directions putting down the seed at 10 lbs per 1000 sq ft. As for the seed, we used an 80/20 blend of Turf quality Tall Fescue and Perennial Rye. We then core aerated the entire area with a Classen SA-25 twice. After this, we put down about 1/4 of an inch of leaf compost that was fine and black. This would ensure a high germination rate. The final touch was a light overseeding.

The Results

Well as you can see, the pictures do not lie. The customer was so happy, he sent me pictures. This is the reason I got into this business 30 years ago. Making something out of nothing never gets old.

That Pesky Moss

 

What Moss Isn't.

Most think that moss is a parasite, but it is not. Moss holds nutrients and water that benefit nearby plants. Moss is not like a normal plant. It does not have vascular tissue and lacks roots, stems, and flowers.

How Does It Grow On Anything?

Moss does not have roots. Instead, it has rhizoids. These short, hair-like outgrowths allow it to grow on just about anything.

Why Do I Find It in Only Damp Places?

Moss uses the wind to carry its spores. The spores develop into male and female plants that reproduce in water.

Benefits

Moss holds many times it's weight in water. This can be a benefit to turf that is not irrigated during the Summer months. It also provides a wonderful protection from erosion.

How Do I Keep It Out of My Lawn?

Moss loves acidic soil. Regular applications of lime to keep the PH above 6.0 will slow it's rate of growth, but not eliminate it. You can visually see your progress with this strategy by watching the color of moss change from dark green to lime green. Regular applications of ferric or culpric sulfate can quickly kill it as well.

Common Lawn Diseases for Virginia

 

Although fungus season is still a couple months away, it never hurts to be prepared. In Virginia, the most common Spring/Summer fungus problems can be divided into two groups: Cool season and Warm Season.

Red Thread

Red thread is one of the earlier Spring fungal problems that is very common in our area. It is characterized by small, irregular, reddish/pink areas. Malnourished or acid ridden lawns are more susceptible to this disease. The good news about Red Thread is that it very rarely leaves permanent scarring. Hotter weather ends it reign before it can permanently damage the turf (usually). A preventative broad spectrum fungicide in early April will usually prevent this nusiance.

Dollar Spot

Dollar Spot is a warm season fungus. It is characterized by a small, white blotch. Multiple blotches will appear in clusters. This disease will not permanently damage the lawn. A good soil base usually is a good long term solution to this problem. Organic fertilizers offer the best long term solution. If you want to prevent this fungus, use a fungicide in late April to prevent it.

Brown Patch

Probably the most damaging fungus we see in the area is Brown Patch. This fungus is characterized by 6 to 12 inch rings that die from the inside outward. This fungus is extremely aggressive and destroy a heathy lawn in just a few weeks. This fungus is active during the hottest part of the Summer with high humidity. Prevention is best cure. Applying Fungicide every month from May to August should do the trick.

 

Shrub Problems Part 2

ChlorosisJust like people, plants show physical signs of sickness. If noticed in time, the problem can be corrected, if not prevented altogether. Chlorotic Plants usually display symptoms that include yellowing leaves and slight wilting. A lack of chlorophyll causes this symptom. Usually a good application of fertilizer will cure this issue. If not, then further detective work will be necessary. First step, check soil PH around the plant. Check to see what type of plant you have and research what the optimum PH should be. If the acid content around the plant is off, then the chemistry just isn't there to allow the plant to consume the fertilizer. Second option, check for any type of insect population around the plant. It could simply be that some type of pest has overwhelmed the plant. The third thing to check is the roots. Dig a hole at the drip line of the plant to the base of the root ball. If you find standing water, the plant may be drowning.

Fungal Diseases

Another common problem with shrubs is disease. Most commonly cause by fungus. Fungus is one of the must successful categories of organisms in the world. It can be found virtually everywhere in any environment. Even alcohol is a byproduct of fungus. So it should not be any surprise that fungus can live in plants. There are many type of shrub fungi. Powdery Mildew, Leaf Spot, Blight, Leaf rot, the list goes on an on. The best way to fight a fungal problem is to prevent it. A regiment of broad spectrum fungicide from April through August usually does a great job of disease prevention.

Common Tree and Shrub Pest Part 1

Here are three common plant pests that love to destroy your landscape. Take a minute to look at the symptoms and see if you remember seeing any of these in your landscape.

Black Lace Weevil

These little buggers love Rhododendrons and Laurels. If you ever see cut out sections in the center or edges of leaves (like a hole punch was used), then you may have an infestation. Black Lace Weevils overwinter as larvae in the soil. In spring, the larvae feed on roots and the root crown. Pupation begins in spring, and adults emerge late spring throughout the summer. They immediately begin to feed on leaves and lay eggs 3 to 4 weeks later. Larvae emerge from these eggs and begin to feed on roots, continuing to do so through the fall. There is usually one generation per year.

Aphids

These pale little creatures commonly destroy Azaleas. If you have ever noticed that your Azaleas look pale and week or if you ever see swarms of what look like gnats around your Azaleas in early Spring, you may have this problem. A definitive test is to look at the underside of the leaf. If you see that the leaf is "speckled" then this is almost a sure bet you have had an Aphid infestation at some point.

Aphids crawl on the underside of the leaf and "suck" the chlorophyll out of the leaf. The small dots on the bottom side of the leaf are where the insect has pierced the tissue.

Bagworms

Bagworms are about as fascinating as they are devastating. These creatures start out as moths. In late Summer and Fall, these moths lay there eggs on the trunk of desirable trees (arborvitaes). In late spring, these eggs hatch and miniature bagworms crawl from the trunk to the end of the nearest branch eating everything in between adding foliage to a sticky web they form around themselves. When they reach the end of the branch they hang there for 4 week and pupate into a moth to start the cycle over again.