Time to Plan for Mosquito Control

 

Nothing ruins an outdoor event like mosquitos. There is just something innately disturbing about insects that bite and suck blood. Here are some interesting facts about mosquitoes and how to protect yourself and family.

How It Begins

It begins by the mosquito laying its eggs in standing water. These eggs turn into larvae, then pupa. The most effective way to kill mosquito is during the larva stage. By putting 'dunks' in the water a slow release larvicide is ingested by the mosquito larva and killed before it has a chance to pupate.

Why They Bite

The mail mosquitoes are typically much larger. The smaller mosquitoes are females and they draw our blood to nourish their eggs.

How to Control the Adults

You have two options when controlling mosquitoes. You can either kill them or repel them. Each tactic has its challenges.

Killing Mosquitoes

Several natural solutions are out there. Products such as Essentria IC3, Wondercide, and Mosquito Barrier use ingredients like garlic, cedar oil, and rosemary oil. Chemical products such as Summit Mosquito control use Permethrin. Permethrin is a contact insecticide that attacks the nervous system of all insects and paralyses them. The downside to killing mosquitoes is that these products tend to kill bees, so caution needs to be taken when spraying flowering plants.

Repelling Mosquitoes

Using DEET or OLE is an effective way to keep mosquitoes away from a limited area, however, DEET can be deadly to pets. Bug zappers can be an effective way to clear a limited area, however there is a school of thought that says zappers attract more mosquitoes than they kill.

For best results a controlled mixture of all of the above solutions is recommended. Have a nice Summer. It's right around the corner.

Time to Start Planning a Defense for Your Plants

It may seem early to be worried about insects, but you would be surprised how soon these little pests will be attacking your shrubs.

Scale

These nasty little limbless creatures dwell on the underside of leaves and suck on sap. Once the population of these get to be numerous, they can kill a plant quickly. Euonymus are especially susceptible to these creatures. The best way to control Scale is Dormant Oil in late Winter. This suffocates the larvae before they have a chance to reek havoc on your plants.

Spider Mites It may seem early to be worried about insects, but you would be surprised how soon these little pests will be attacking your shrubs.

Spider Mites

Spider Mites are another devastating nuisance. A sign you may have an infestation is small webs in your shrubs. They are most noticeable in the morning dew. These creatures can kill an expensive Dwarf Alberta Spruce in a few weeks. Again, the best treatment for this pest is Dormant Oil in Late Winter. Just like the Scale, this suffocates the larvae before they can cause damage.

What is a Transition Zone and How Does It Affect My Lawn

 

Location, Location, LocationLocation has always been the top three things you look for when purchasing a property. It is also very important when choosing a grass type for your lawn.
If you live in Virginia, you live in what is called a "Transition Zone." Simply put, this is where the climate transitions from Cool to Warm season. The transition zone roughly extends from the Northern part of West Virginia to the middle of Georgia. It is very tricky to grow grass in the transition zone and here is why:
Warm season grasses such as Zoysia, Bermudagrass, Bahaigrass, Centipede, St. Augustine, etc... need hot conditions to thrive year round. It is true you can establish a few of these grasses in Virginia, but they go dormant during the winter leaving your lawn an unsightly brown for many months.
Cool season grasses include Kentucky Bluegrass, Rye, Tall Fescue, Fine Fescue, Creeping Red Fescue, etc... These grass thrive very well in Spring and Fall in Virginia, but really struggle when the soil temperatures get into the 80's. They also can't stand full sun without some sort of break during the summer. This intolerance leads to annual reseeding in the Fall.
So to all of us branded Transition Zone Dwellers, we have to pick our poison. Do we have an ugly lawn in the Winter, or an ugly lawn in the Summer.
Compromises
All of life is a compromise, so your lawn is no exception. I have found you can live with either of these choices, but concessions have to be made. If you choose a warm season grass like Bermudagrass or Zoysia, you have to plant in the Summer. To keep the lawn from browning in the Winter, you can seed this lawn with Rye or Fescue in late October. The cool season grass will come in an thrive over the winter. The result is a nice green lawn for quite a while. When the hot weather comes, the warm season grasses take over the the cool season die off and cosmetically only an expert would ever tell the difference.
If you prefer a cool season lawn, then plant with Tall Fescue in September or October. When June comes around, make sure the lawn gets plenty of daily, short, frequent watering and plant some trees. The rotating shade break is usually all they need.

Sharpening Your Lawn Mower Blade

 

Sharpening Your Lawn Mower Blade is an important part of keeping you grass healthy. For the average homeowner, this should be done once or twice per year. Here are some of the tips that can help you in 2021.
Does My Blade need to be Sharpened?
Failure to properly sharpen your blades will rip the top of the grass instead of cutting it. So to see if you need to sharpen your blade you will have to get really close to the ground and inspect the tips of the grass. It should be cut cleanly. If you see the tips of the grass torn (see below) then you are exposing the grass in a way that kills the color of the overall turf.

Safety InstructionsBefore you turn you mower over or climb underneath, a few safety precautions need to be taken. Firstly - disconnect you spark plug(s). Get the proper tools (consult your operators manual) and remove the blade(s)
InspectionLook at the blade closely. If you are missing chunks of the blade, or if it is bent, then take it to the nearest small engine shop and get a new one. A damaged blade is not safe to reuse! The good news is that you will not have to sharpen a new one.
SharpeningPut the blade on a vice. Using a grinder or coarse file follow the angle of the cutting plane on each leading edge of the blade. Grind or File this plane using the same angle. It is important to have the very edge of the blade to gently grab the skin on you finger when you lightly press on it. Don't have the expectation of having it as sharp as a steak knife. The sharper the edge, the quicker it will dull. When you get there, turn the blade over and lightly grind/file the bottom of the leading edge to get off the burrs.
BalancingAn unbalanced blade will cause vibrations that can damage your engine. A simple way to check for balance is to hang the blade on a nail on a wall. It should remain how you hang it. If it rotates, then take more metal off the heavy side until it balances.
Replacing BladeAlways remember to put the blade back on the mower with the newly shiny, sharpened edge facing towards the engine. Tighten the bolt(s) to the specified torque. Reconnect the spark plug and get back to mowing. Make sure to check your freshly cut grass to see if the problem has been solved.